The best thing that has happened in my life so far would have to be moving to Hawaii. It was ALWAYS warm there, even when it rained. I went to the beach almost everyday and had the best tan EVER! Yes you heard me, Scarlet Inches was tan! I went surfing every weekend too! That was just about the best part, learning to surf. It was so fun! And I got really buff and balanced to! It takes so much arm strength to get on a wave! One time when I was out surfing there was sea turtles all around me! It was kinda scarey though because they are so monstrously huge! One of the down sides to surfing is when you get on a really big wave and wipe out. Sometimes there will be a progression of 2 or 3 waves and it will be really hard to resurface because the waves keep pounding you back down and you have a surf board strapped to your leg, but most of the time it floats back up to the top and takes you with it. Sometimes a wave will rip your board away and drag you with it under water and through waves. Thats scarey. Another downside to surfing is that if you forget to wear board shorts you get a rash from the board wax on your legs and inside of your arms. You get it on your legs from when your pulling yourself up and they drag on the wax. You get it on your arms from when your paddeling. After a while i became almost immune to it. It really sucks when you break your board to because let me tell you, they arent cheap. Most people break their boards when surfing in rough waters with crazy high waves. It always made me sad to see a guy walk out of the water with half his board still attached to his ankle and they other half abducted by the waves.
3 comments:
that sounds like SO much FUN! i wanna surf:D that would be really cool to live there!!!
I never knew that you lived in Hawaii! I'never been there. That's so cool. I love warm weather. But sometimes I like cold weather, too. That the only time I went surfing was at Double Bluff. And the waves there are really small.
It would be much better if the rain was warm here. I went surfing in Australia last spring break. Your right wiping out is not fun its really hard to resurface. How long did you live in Hawaii? Did you ever break your board?
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